FREE educational classes- VERMICOMPOSTING through the winter. Master Composter, inventor, educator - TOM PERKINS (lived 21 years in Italy)
Engaging, hands-on workshop with demonstration of 4 different techniques and scales (from apartments, to homes to gardens.)
WHEN? - 11/17/2024, Saturday 11am to 1 pm (2 hours).
COST: zero dollars. Just bring your smiles, a positive attitude, a notebook and rubber boots for the farm tour.
WHERE? - Dancing Goats and Singing Chickens Organic Farm
14062 Yelm Hwy SE, Yelm, WA 98597.
Vermicomposting is a natural process that uses worms to break down organic waste into nutrient-rich compost. The compost can be used as a soil amendment to nourish plants in gardens, landscaping, and more.
Here are some tips for vermicomposting:
Worms- Red wigglers and white worms are common species used for vermicomposting. Worms are picky eaters, so you can chop food scraps into 1–2 inch pieces and shred paper before adding them to the bin. Avoid adding animal by-products, plastic, or coffee filters.
Bin - You can use a plastic or wood storage container, or purchase a worm bin. The bin should be kept in a location with a temperature between 59–77°F, and should have holes for aeration and drainage.
Food scraps - Cover food scraps with dirt and moist paper to keep fruit flies away. Only add more food scraps to the bin once the previous food has been consumed.
Compost - Compost is ready when it's a deep, moist, blackish brown color. You can use vermicompost in seedbeds, planting holes, or as a top dressing for plants.
Time - Worms can break down food waste in 8–12 weeks, which is faster than traditional composting. Under ideal conditions, a worm bin population can double every two months.
One common issue is the presence of unwanted pests, such as mites, which can disrupt the composting process and impact the quality of the vermicompost. Additionally, maintaining the right moisture level can be tricky, as overly wet or dry conditions can lead to problems like foul odors or slowed decomposition. Vermicompost, compared to traditional compost is better because of its higher nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium content, and its ability to improve soil structure and increase its water holding capacity. However, its cost is higher, so for large areas, it is necessary to evaluate the cost-benefit ratio. In fact, vermicompost can enhance soil fertility physically, chemically and biologically. Physically, vermicompost-treated soil has better aeration, porosity, bulk density and water retention. Chemical properties such as pH, electrical conductivity and organic matter content are also improved for better crop yield.
Worm castings come from worm waste, while vermicomposts are a mix of worm castings and other organic material that has decomposed. Worm wastes generally include worm poop, worm eggs, and other materials that pass from one end of the worm to another. The bin should be as moist as a damp sponge. An indoor temperature of 55 to 75 degrees is perfect for the worms. Keep them away from ovens, heaters or air conditioners – too cold and your worms will freeze, too hot and they'll roast.
Yard debris and food waste combined account for nearly 30% of the materials disposed in US landfills. These materials can be easily composted in municipal and backyard composting systems and fortunately, composting collection programs have been increasing with increasing waste generation. However, backyard composting may not be an option for many individuals that wish to divert their materials from the landfill because they lack yard space, time or energy or else live in a rental unit; therefore, vermicomposting becomes an attractive alternative. What’s more, vermicomposting can be a powerful educational tool for teaching children about decomposition, microbiology, earthworms and the importance of managing organic residuals such as food waste at home.
Why vermicompost?
Vermicompost is the product of earthworm digestion and aerobic decomposition using the activities of micro- and macroorganisms at room temperature. Vermicomposting, or worm composting, produces a rich organic soil amendment containing a diversity of plant nutrients and beneficial microorganisms.
There are several benefits for vermicomposting but the two most popular are (1) diverting organic residuals from the landfill and reducing trash collection fees and (2) creating resources from waste materials.
Vermicomposting can be a fun activity for school children, and vermicompost can be utilized in gardens to promote plant growth. Vermicompost can be mixed with potting media at a rate of 10% by volume or else added directly into your soil; both options will provide plants with valuable organic matter, nutrients, and a diversity of beneficial microbes.
Earthworm biology
Typical earthworms that you find in your garden are not suitable for vermicomposting. These are soil-dwelling worms that do not process large amounts of food waste and don’t reproduce well in confined spaces. Instead, worms commonly known as redworms or red wigglers are preferred because they reproduce rapidly, are communal and tend to remain on the surface while feeding.
There are several species of vermicomposting worms but the most common are Eisenia fetida and E. andrei. Red wigglers are hermaphrodites having both male and female reproductive parts; however, it still requires two worms to mate with each worm donating sperm to the other worm.
Under ideal conditions, a worm bin population can double about every 2 months (4-6 weeks from cocoon to emergence and 6-8 weeks from emergence to maturity). The “band” around a worm, known as the clitellum, indicates maturity and is reproductively active. Cocoons are about the size of a match stick head, turning pearly white to brown as they develop until one to several baby worms hatch.
Red wigglers require similar conditions as humans for growth – they prefer room temperature (55-85°F) and adequate moisture. The population of a worm bin is controlled through nutrient/food availability and space requirements.
Building a worm bin
There are a number of bins that can be used to raise earthworms, some of the more common are plastic bins of various sizes. Worm bins can be made of wood but cedar should never be used as it contains antimicrobial properties. Commercial bins can also be purchased online. Bins made from 1-2 inch thick Styrofoam have proven to be a suitable alternative to plastic bins with the added advantage of better insulation and can be acquired for free from fish/pet supply stores. Smaller bins are fitting for those just starting out but will restrict population growth while larger bins, usually 18 inches wide, 24 inches long and 18 inches deeps are typical for larger worm populations.
Bins should be well ventilated, containing numerous holes on the bottom and at least two rows of holes along the bottom half and middle of the bin. Larger holes can be cut in the lid of the bin but should have a piece of cloth taped over top to discourage fruit flies. Worm bins should be raised off the ground with long stakes so that air may flow under the bin.
Fill about half of the bin with moist, shredded newspaper to use as bedding and then add a handful of garden soil, which will inoculate the bin with microorganisms and sand that the worms use in their gizzard to grind food.
Now add the worms! Worms can be purchased online. Beginners can easily get away with 1,000 worms for new bins but need to remember that smaller populations will take more time to digest food waste. Place the bin in a cool dark location with minimal temperature fluctuations, will not freeze or become excessively hot during the summer. Basements are typical locations but under a kitchen sink is also suitable.
Managing a worm bin
Worms benefit from the fewest disturbances as possible – kind of like beneficial neglect. For instance, worms dislike light, and each time the lid opens the worms will stop feeding and seek shelter below the surface. With that said, they still require food and water. Moisture is often supplied with food waste. More moisture can be added if needed using a spray bottle.
Harvesting your compost
A simple method for harvesting castings and separating worms from castings is to use the “dump and sort” method. Dump the contents of the bin on a tarp under a lit environment, separate undigested material from finished material and place the finished material in several small cone-like shapes. Overtime the worms will flee from the light and migrate to the center of the cone. Slowly scrape away worm-free castings from the top and sides of the cones until worms are visible again. Eventually, the worms will have migrated to the bottom middle of the cone and you are left with a small pile of worms. Put the worms back in the bin and begin feeding again.
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